Evan DuCharme/Special to The S.F. ExaminerThe breakfast sandwich at Cafe Terminus in the Financial District — packed with fluffy eggs

Evan DuCharme/Special to The S.F. ExaminerThe breakfast sandwich at Cafe Terminus in the Financial District — packed with fluffy eggs

Try Cafe Terminus for breakfast, then stay all day

Cafe Terminus could easily be a home away from home for the go-getters of the Financial District, a place for morning kicks-in-the-pants, midday fortifying sandwiches and after-work sojourns, well-mixed cocktail in hand. If a workday in the FiDi were a boxing match, Terminus would be your corner — a place to sit and rest between rounds.

Terminus has a small, focused kitchen, much like its sister cafe, the Sentinel. The kitchen makes its own bread, mayo — almost everything. The morning menu is Scotch-taped to the bar. The soundtrack tends toward charming, rough-around-the-edges psychedelia, a pleasant contrast to the polite aloofness of downtown San Francisco and the restaurant’s own minimalist palette of graphite, wood and glass. On Fridays, Led Zeppelin is played.

The food matches the music — brave, warm, with gumption — though options are minimal. The breakfast sandwich, on an eggy bun freckled with sesame, has a deeply caramelized top. Inside, scrambled eggs are fluffy and oozy, threatening spillage. Cubes of tender ham and pleasantly stinky Swiss top the eggs. Served fresh and hot, one must eat around it, monitoring its oozy edges, or consider a fork.

The blueberry muffin is confectionary and cartoonishly rustic, with a crusty powdered-sugar dome and blueberries polka-dotting the interior. It’s moist, the blueberries still juicy and vibrant. Between it and a sprightly traditional French roast (roasted in-house), I’m confident of inspiration, or at least jitters, and I’m ready to dance like a butterfly and sting like a bee until lunch.

Between 10 and 11 a.m., the place fairly empties, the breakfast sandwiches gone. Work can be done at one of the quiet tables, next to the clean expanse of storefront glass protecting patrons from — and entertaining them with — the streetcars, traffic attendants and constant parade of pedestrians.

The place feels bare, the glass sparkles, and if there’s a spot in the FiDi where you can think quietly, it’s here, before the lunchtime rush.

Lunch starts at 11 a.m., but the rush is around 1 p.m. Skip it by coming in early, so you can get your choice of meaty, gutsy, chest-hair-sprouting sandwiches and substantial salads. Waits aren’t long.

Mayo is always a creamy accent on Terminus’ sandwiches and never unwelcome. The pulled-pork sandwich tastes like the pulled-pork sandwich to end all pulled-pork sandwiches — spicy, sweet, crunchy with slaw, delightfully messy.

The turkey sandwich, with a pleasingly tart and bitter cranberry dressing, is ample and fresh.

I also trust wholeheartedly in the salads. The kale salad has the same sort of character as the sandwiches — straightforward, with plenty of oomph. The walnuts are a fresh complement to crunchy apples, with paper-thin slices of lemon providing dramatic pauses, bright and sweet without a touch of bitterness.

Finally, a day’s work done (15 rounds, no decision), I return, waiting out the crowded BART trains with Terminus’ absinthe-focused cocktail menu.

The small room is filled, loud, raucous, transformed from a quiet refuge to a place to loosen a few buttons. My cocktail, a Citizen’s Committee, is sweet but not girly sweet, efficient, gentle on the soul. I shake my bartender’s hand, work forgotten, ready for home.

Cafe Terminus

Location: 16 California St. (at Drumm Street), S.F.

Contact: TerminusSF.com, cafeterminusbar@gmail.com

Hours: 8 a.m. to midnight (or sometimes 2 a.m.) Mondays-Sundays

Price range: $3 to $11

Recommended dishes: Breakfast sandwich ($10), pulled-pork sandwich ($8.28), kale salad ($9.20)

Credit cards: All major

Reservations: Not acceptedFeaturesFood & DrinkFood and Wine

If you find our journalism valuable and relevant, please consider joining our Examiner membership program.
Find out more at www.sfexaminer.com/join/

Just Posted

Passengers ride the 14-Mission Muni bus on Friday, March 12, 2021. (Jordi Molina/Special to S.F. Examiner)
Transit officials fear Free Muni pilot could hurt already-strained service levels

Supporters say fare cuts could increase ridership, help low-income residents

The vacant property at 730 Stanyan St. in the Haight currently houses a safe sleeping site for the homeless. <ins>(Kevin N. Hume/S.F. Examiner)</ins>
Affordable housing project on former McDonald’s site delayed as city adds units

The start of construction on an affordable housing project on the site… Continue reading

Visitors read a notice hanging on the Polk Street entrance to City Hall on Thursday, March 26, 2020, shortly after the building was closed. (Kevin N. Hume/S.F. Examiner)
City Hall reopening to the public on June 7 after long closure due to COVID-19

San Francisco will reopen City Hall to the public on June 7… Continue reading

Historic streetcars are undergoing testing on The Embarcadero to prepare for their return to service on May 15.<ins></ins>
What to expect for Muni Metro’s relaunch on May 15

Significant service restoration includes downtown subway tunnels and historic streetcars

San Francisco 49ers quarterback Jimmy Garoppolo (10) and running back Raheem Mostert (31) celebrate after Mostert scores his fourth rushing touchdown in the third quarter as the 49ers take on the Green Bay Packers in the NFC Championship game at Levi’s Stadium in Santa Clara, Calif. on Sunday, Jan. 19, 2020. (Kevin N. Hume/S.F. Examiner)
49ers on prime-time TV five times in 2021

Usually a team that finishes in last place and won only six… Continue reading

Most Read