Coi and a celebrity chef cook-off

While David Gingrass reinvented his restaurant in the same location, Daniel Patterson has been developing his own culinary persona at a succession of three different spots near Jackson Square.

Last week at Coi, his current nine-table retreat, I floated through the daily changing 12-course menu ($115) and marveled at the poetic tension, the ebullient creativity and the pure sensuality of the food. Part performance art, part dinner, an evening at Coi stretches the imagination but not the stomach. Some dishes are exactly one bite. Others, a few more. But each is a complete little composition that engages all the senses. The orange yolk of a slow-cooked farm egg achieves the texture of jelly, under a white blanket of crème fraîche and California osetra caviar. Grilled zucchini terrine looks like an exquisite woven tapestry. It unravels in your mouth trailing flavor threads of smoke and fresh herbs. Patterson now has a place so small, he can work on every dish, so each meal becomes an act of self-expression.

Coi, 373 Broadway (near Montgomery St.), San Francisco; (415) 393-9000

Celebrity chef cook-off

Some of San Francisco’s liveliest chefs will face off at a benefit for the Afterschool Alliance, a nonprofit that promotes after-school programs. Women go up against men; TV chefs against restaurant chefs. Joey Altman, left, co-hosts with Tyler Florence. Attendees can indulge in Jack Falstaff cocktails, wine and tapas. The event is from 3 to 7 p.m. Sept. 2 at Jack Falstaff, 598 Second St., San Francisco.

For tickets starting at $100, call (415) 836-9239.

entertainmentFeaturesFood & DrinkFood and Wine

If you find our journalism valuable and relevant, please consider joining our Examiner membership program.
Find out more at www.sfexaminer.com/join/

Just Posted

The City has struggled to conduct outreach in some neighborhoods as it works to expand Slow Streets — such as this section of Page Street in the Lower Haight — to underserved neighborhoods. <ins>(Jordi Molina/Special to S.F. Examiner)</ins>
SFMTA delays vote on Bayview Slow Streets, approves five others in ‘underserved’ areas

SFMTA struggles to conduct outreach in neighborhoods with lower internet access

Stern Grove Festival organizers are planning to bring back the popular summer concert series — The Isley Brothers show in 2019 is pictured — with limited audience capacity. (Ming Vong/S.F. Examiner)
Indoor shows won’t be flooding SF stages soon but Stern Grove might be back in June

While San Francisco Mayor London Breed announced that live performances may resume… Continue reading

San Francisco Giants pitcher Johnny Cueto  (47) started on Opening Day against the Colorado Rockies at Oracle Park on April 9, 2021. (Photography by Chris Victorio | Special to the S.F. Examiner).
Giants welcome fans back with strong performance by Cueto

By Ethan Kassel Special to S.F. Examiner ORACLE PARK — The first… Continue reading

James Harbor appears in court after he was arrested on charges in the July 4th shooting death of 6-year-old Jace Young on Friday, Jan. 8, 2021. (Kevin N. Hume/S.F. Examiner)
Murder case heads to trial over killing of 6-year-old Jace Young

Hearing reveals new details in ‘horrific’ Fourth of July shooting

BART passengers may see more frequent service by this fall. (Kevin N. Hume/S.F. Examiner)
BART service increases possible as soon as September

Proposal would double weekday, daytime trains and extend system operating hours

Most Read