A book on meat; tomatoes are back

A new kind of book is finding its way onto overstocked cookbook shelves these days, combining recipes with essays and practical cooking advice with philosophy. The writing is personal, anecdotal and unabashedly partisan. These books come out of the environmental movement but their authors have real culinary expertise. They share the belief that knowing where and how your food is raised makes for a healthier planet and healthier individuals. “The River Cottage Meat Book” by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall (Ten Speed Press, $40), a massive volume with glossy pages and evocative natural photographs, is a case in point. It’s a handbook for both home and restaurant cooks as well as a manifesto on the importance of knowing the provenance of the meat and poultry we eat. What makes this cookbook such juicy reading is its scope — huge and meandering — leaving no part of any animal unexplored. The voice is quixotic, charming and persuasive. Even if you skip the first 200 pages on “Understanding Meat,” you’ll still find the next 300 pages on “Cooking Meat,” a chapter for each technique, invaluable.

TOMATOES ARE BACK IN TOWN

Local tomatoes have finally reached independent food stores and farmers markets. Cherry tomatoes in all colors, shapes and sizes arrived first; then, similarly varied big tomatoes. Combined they make the most gorgeous salads. Assemble them at home or treat yourself to Bix’s organic heirloom tomato cart, wheeled right to your table.

Bix, 56 Gold St. San Francisco; www.bixrestaurant.com

entertainmentFeaturesFood & DrinkFood and Wine

If you find our journalism valuable and relevant, please consider joining our Examiner membership program.
Find out more at www.sfexaminer.com/join/

Just Posted

A health care worker receives one of the first COVID-19 vaccine doses at Zuckerberg San Francisco General Hospital on Tuesday Dec. 15, 2020. (Courtesy SFgov)
SF to open three large sites for COVID-19 vaccinations

Breed: ‘We need more doses. We are asking for more doses’

Tongo Eisen-Martin, a Bernal Heights resident, named San Francisco’s eighth poet laureate. (Kevin N. Hume/S.F. Examiner)
Tongo Eisen-Martin becomes San Francisco’s eighth poet laureate

Bernal Heights resident Tongo Eisen-Martin has become San Francisco’s eighth poet laureate.… Continue reading

Homeless people's tents can be seen on Golden Gate Avenue in the Tenderloin on Wednesday afternoon, Dec. 16, 2020. (Photo by Ekevara Kitpowsong/S.F. Examiner)
Statewide business tax could bring new funds to combat homelessness

San Francisco could get more than $100 million a year for housing, rental assistance, shelter beds

The Museum of the African Diaspora in San Francisco (a mural by artist Jamie Treacy is pictued) has a lineup of free online programming including activities for youngsters scheduled for Martin Luther King Jr. Day on Jan. 18. (Courtesy Demetri Broxton/Museum of the African Diaspora)
Stanford, Museum of the African Diaspora host MLK Day activities

Online offerings include films, music, discussion

Speaker of the House Nancy Pelosi presides the US House of Representatives vote on the impeachment of US President Donald Trump at the US Capitol, January 13, 2021, in Washington, DC. - The Democrat-controlled US House of Representatives on January 13 opened debate on a historic second impeachment of President Donald Trump over his supporters' attack of the Capitol that left five dead. (SAUL LOEB/AFP via Getty Images/TNS)
House votes 232-197 to impeach Trump a second time

Focus shifts to Senate, where McConnell has signaled he may not stand by president

Most Read