Some of the hottest exhibitions at the de Young Museum have been fashion retrospectives — the work of designers Vivienne Westwood and Oscar de la Renta, the closet collections of the late “social X-ray” Nan Kempner. “Patrick Kelly: Runway of Love” should be no exception. Kelly, a gay Black designer who rose to brief and brilliant fame in the mid-1980s before dying in Paris of AIDS complications in 1990, created timeless, joyful designs from humble materials — tubular knits, heart-shaped candy boxes, jars of buttons.

What is exceptional about this fashion installation is the trigger warning that appears on the wall outside of the main gallery:

Reinventing racial imagery: Patrick Kelly at the de Young Museum

(Photo by Oliviero Toscani, Estate of Patrick Kelly, Courtesy of Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco)

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