My elegant Shanghai friends, one in her 70s, the other a venerable 89, swept into the humble little Golden Gate Dim Sum Seafood Restaurant like two empresses.Watching from the table, I had a premonition that this could be a culturally fraught lunch. But I needed them. Most of the dishes I wanted to try were posted on the wall in Chinese.For three years, Golden Gate has been serving straight-ahead Guangdong Cantonese food in the former location of Mao Zedong Village Cuisine.
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With its astonishing range of dishes, prices, cooking techniques and inventiveness, Koi Palace, the 400-seat dim sum and seafood house, never fails to amaze me. As the centerpiece of a Chinese New Year banquet I attended, the kitchen prepared a 10-pound, $480 Australian lobster three ways.
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