New generation reviving longstanding carignan in California 

click to enlarge Lover’s Lane Vineyard
  • Courtesy www.harringtonwine.com
  • The Harrington Carignan from Lover’s Lane Vineyard is created by using a Depression-era vineyard in Ukiah.
Carignan used to be one of the most widely planted grapes in California. Not familiar? It has been one of the mainstays in the Central Valley, where it has gone into jug wines found in California as far back as the 19th century and it has been revived by a new generation of producers who believe in its potential.

Originally from Spain, the grape is now widely planted in the south of France and Sardinia, as well as northeastern Spain. Its thick skin and eggplant color has made carignan a useful blending grape, often finding itself in the company of grenache, syrah, mourvedre and sometimes zinfandel.

In part because it is less expensive than other grapes, carignan appeals to younger winemakers, who do not have as much financial wherewithal as existing wineries. There are some very old carignan vineyards in Alexander Valley, Contra Costa County and other regions that render magnificent fruit at a fraction of the price of cabernet sauvignon and pinot noir.

Also, many have gotten tired of the grapes that have been so popular over the last decade, and want to try their hand at something else. Though carignan has been planted for a long time, it does not have the track record of other red wines, which allows a certain creative freedom. Chris Brockway of Broc Cellars helped pave the way with a carbonic carignan in 2009 that caught a lot of attention. Light, refreshing and vivacious, it showed others that carignan does not have to be a heavy and tannic wine.

While Brockway’s rendition has certainly been influential, others have put their own stamp on the grape with wines that show the promise of this old and underappreciated grape. Here are a few examples:

Sandlands Wines Carignan, 2011 (Contra Costa County) Composed of fruit from a dry-farmed, own-rooted vineyard planted in the 1920’s, Sandlands’ carignan has silky berry fruit interspersed with cedar and spice. Suggested Retail: $29

Kivelstadt Cooley Ranch Carignane, Old Wyve’s Tale, 2012 (Alexander Valley) Made from a 140-year-old, dry-farmed vineyard, this is an unassuming yet thoroughly enjoyable wine with cherries, vanilla and a hint of bacon fat. Suggested Retail: $24

Harrington Carignan Lover’s Lane Vineyard, 2012 (Mendocino County) Local vigneron, Bryan Harrington sources his carignan from a Depression-era organic vineyard in Ukiah. It has a bit of weight, but the bright acidity keeps it from feeling fat. With blue fruits, dried leaves, herbs and moderate tannins, it is reminiscent of the best carignans from the Languedoc — Roussillon region of France. No suggested retail price.

Some of these wines can be found at Arlequin Wine Merchants, Acme Fine Wines — St. Helena, Canyon Market, Haight Street Market, Harrington Wines, Northbrae Bottle Ship, Ordinaire Wine Shop and Bar and Rainbow Grocery.

Pamela S. Busch has been working in the wine industry since 1990 as a writer, educator and consultant and co-founded Hayes & Vine Wine Bar and Cav Wine Bar & Kitchen. In 2013, she launched TheVinguard.com, a blog covering a variety of wine-related topics.

About The Author

Pamela S. Busch

Bio:
Pamela Busch has been working in the wine industry since 1990 as a writer, educator and consultant and co-founded Hayes & Vine Wine Bar and Cav Wine Bar & Kitchen. In 2013, she launched TheVinguard.com.
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